I became interested in beautiful opera houses a few years ago after seeing a performance at La Scala in Milan, which must be one of life's great musical experiences.
Actually, I became obsessed by beautiful theaters after watching Herzog's Fitzcarraldo, whose hero defiantly declares:
"As true as I am standing here, one day I shall bring grand opera to Iquitos."
Fitcarraldo is the incredible Sisyphean true story of a man who wants to build an opera house in the middle of the Amazon rainforest in the late 19th century and his story is only to be outdone by the crazy outlandishness of the man who decides to re-create the event a hundred years later in film.
Like a set of nested Russian dolls--each more mind-bogglingly conceived-- the story's central metaphor continuously revolves around the theme of "man against nature." This is a world where it people's dreams that truly matter. And these people will move mountains in order to pursue their obsessions. So, to build his opera house, the hero, Fitcarraldo, has to employ hundreds of Indians to help pull a 320-ton ship over a muddy hill. But perhaps what is the most incredible part of the story is that Werner Herzog, in the making of his film about the historic ship-pulling, insists on physically re-creating the original challenges by struggling to capture on film the impossible task of having the local Indians pulling a real 320-ton ship over a mountain. His hell-bent will to veracity has made Herzog's film the stuff of legend.
And this is all very unexpected since film has never been an art much concerned with literal truth, being taken up solely by images. Not to mention that if all that matters is the "burden of his dream," why doesn't Herzog employ the usual Hollywood devices of stage set and miniatures to evoke his story more poetically? Why does he seek to do the impossible and film actual people pulling a real 320-ton ship over a steep and very slippery hill in the most remote part of the Amazon --given the useless burden of doing so?
Why, indeed?
The glorious Don Quixote of the Amazon? The Conquistador of the Useless. I love Herzog! And someday to see the Amazonas in Manaus is a dream of mine.
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The Most Beautiful Opera Houses in the World, by Antoine Pecqueur, is a fun book. It does not include the Amazonas in Manaus, nor does it include the Colon in Buenos Aires, which is supposed to be another great beauty in South America. It is a quirky and opiniated volume. Originally written in French, it has stunningly beautiful photographs of the old opera houses. And while I cannot say I have any desire to see Bayreuth (sorry everyone), I am hoping very much to visit Teatro Nacional de São Carlos in Lisbon and Teatro La Fenice later this year. Maybe the theater in Barcelona as well--all three recommended by Pecqueur as being among the most beautiful.
My own list, so far, would have to be something like this:
1 Palais Garnier. It remains my favorite. The two best ballet performances of my life where seen here: La Source and La Sylphide. Ceiling painted by Chagall...I love everything about this theater. Hoping to be there at least once this year.
2. La Scala. A life experience in a country where the prime minister traditionally attends La Scala's season's openings--always covered by the top newspapers and where art and high culture still really matters. Also, it is a place where attendees are known to boo! We saw Carmen here and shared a box with a very seriously attentive and opinionated Italian couple. They were glued to the performance and adjusted their clapping meticulously to represent their feelings for each performer. Such a difference from the laid back performances in LA, where "it's all good!"
3. Parma Theater. Have not seen a performance here but most visually beautiful and historically interesting theater I have seen. A perfect Renaissance gem. I am hoping to attend the Verdi festival here someday.....
4. The Zurich Opera House Wonderfully beautiful art neo-rococo style inside. It is also associated with Wagner but that is not why I like it.
5. Santa Fe Opera House. Indescribable!
++ I also have another book on opera houses by another French writer, Opera Houses Of The World by Thierry Beauvert. Interesting, both books list the new Tokyo Opera House in the list of most beautiful new theaters. Sydney too, of course. Here is National Geographic's Top Ten--do you agree?
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