Borges' Library

A blog that will interest almost no one...

notes on the perfect library

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“If every library is in some sense a reflection of its readers, it is also an image of that which we are not, and cannot be.” 
― Alberto Manguel, The Library at Night

 

The Abbey Library at St Gall

Sissinghurst Library

Biblioteca dell'Archiginnasio, Bologna

Rotating Sutra Library at Hasedera

Oriental Library in Tokyo (for its Silk Road archives)

Hapsburg Libraries at el Escorial and the Vienna State Library

Monastery Libraries at Admont and Melk

Coimbra

Royal Library of Turin

(Why have I never seen in French libraries? And to see the library at Salamanca is a top priority!)

 

St gall1) The Abbey Library at St Gall

Many years ago, I worked on a translation of a Japanese documentary on the subject of the Abbey Library of St. Gall, which is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Everything I read about the library entranced me. And I finally got to visit this beautiful jewel a few years ago when I traveled to see it in St Gallen, Switzerland. Nothing could have prepared me for the perfect Baroque period jewel that is the library. I think it is the most beautiful library in the world. The library itself dates far back in history, having started out as an early medieval scriptorium. Some of the books in the collection are national treasures. With its carved bookcases and painted ceilings, it's like a baroque dream come true. There is even a huge painted 16th century globe of the world. 

Probably what struck me most of all about the place (and this is perhaps true of many pilgrims visiting the famed library) was the plaque that was affixed above the rococo doors leading into the room, which reads in Greek: Psyches iatreion, which can be translated as "pharmacy of the soul" --though when we were there, I think the guidebook said "medicine of the soul." This claim that books are medicine for the soul (or libraries are hospices for the sick) is, in fact, the world's oldest library motto, dating all the way back to Pharaoh Ramses II, whose ancient library also had a "plaque" above the door designating the pharaoh's library to be a "house of healing for the soul."

Here is an article:  Download Library motto. 

 

2) Sissinghurst

Like a lot of people, I have long imagined paradise as a beautiful garden.

And of all the gardens in the world, there is one in particular that perfectly embodies the heavenly for me. My obsession with Sissinghurst goes way back. The garden had "caught instantly in my heart and imagination" when I was around 13. A garden of my dreams, it is also a real life place. A place in England, in fact. And, if the idea of the "Kentish Weald" is not romantic enough for you, how about a garden created in the ruins of an early Tudor period castle? 

At 13, I was greatly enamored by its creator Vita Sackville-West-- and thought she was like Karen Blixen in Out Of Africa. Independent, fearless and talented. 

Or like Virginia Woolf, with whom she had had a legendary love affair, Vita was for me the ultimate heroine. Denied an inheritance because she was female, she stood up and took brilliant charge of her life in a way that continues to dazzle me. She would have her fun, her friends and lovers; her books and art--not to mention her stunning career--and simply never look back. Of course, Vita was born into great privilege, and yet there was still something triumphant about her way of living her life. Looking back at my own life, I don't think I have achieved anything close to her stunning independence. Not all that long ago, a friend of these pages remarked that despite considering herself to be an independent person, she had actually never lived on her own. Her words struck me. Of course, I have lived independently both in Japan and America for some lengths of time--and yet with the birth of my son especially, I feel I have lived in a very dependent way. And given my youthful admiration with Virginia Woolf and Vita Sackville-West, it is surprising that I never became more resistant to living on someone's else's terms.

 

Biblioteca-comunale-dellArchiginnasio-Bologna_033 Biblioteca dell'Archiginnasio, Bologna

The most history-fragrant library I have ever been in... from the arcades covered in paintings of the coats of arms of students who had studied here in the middle ages to the old anatomy theater--two great marble staircases sweep students up to the Stabat Mater Lecture Hall and the old library.  

Upper loggia of painted memories

Famous Alumni of the Europe's oldest university

History from official website:

The Archiginnasio palace was constructed between 1562 and 1563 as desired by the Papal Legate of Bologna, Cardinal Carlo Borromeo and Vice-legate Pier Donato Cesi, by the project of Bologna's architect Antonio Morandi called Terribilia. The purpose of the operation, during the cultural climate of the Council of Trent, was that to give a unit seat to the university teaching until then dispersed in various seats.
The external portion of the palace is presented by a long portico of 30 arches and is pronounced in two internal floors around a central courtyard with a double order of loggias. Two grand staircases lead to the floor above that presents 10 scholastic lecture halls (today they are not able to been visited, as they hold the principle books deposits of the library) and two home lecture halls located at the two ends of the building, one for the Artists (today Reading Hall of the Library) and one for the Legisti (Ancient Law students) (Sala dello Stabat Mater).
The sides of the rooms, the vaults of the grand staircases, and of the open galleries are decorated with inscriptions and monuments commemorating the masters of the ancient university and thousands coats of arms and students names.
The building's university function ceased in 1803; from 1838, after being for a few years a primary school, is the seat of the Library. At the ground level some of the antique lecture rooms are occupied by the Società Medica Chirurgica and by the Accademia di Agricoltura.

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Following Hapsburg Libraries I think of as a set:

4 Abby Library at Melk

5) Abby Library at Admont

6) Library at El Escorial

 

 

HasederaKyōzō (Sutra Archive)

 

Royal Library of Turin

Coimbra

Oriental Library

 

Admont

https://io9.gizmodo.com/lose-yourself-in-these-photos-of-europes-most-magnifice-1679182958

Rococo-Doors-into-Library-1In some ways libraries do stand as types of memory palaces mirroring who we are and where we came from. Libraries are often associated with nation-state or kingdom building. And thinking of the above image of a civilization in ruins trying to rebuild with what books they had left is a topic taken up by Roy Scranton in his incredibly compelling book, Learning to Die in the Anthropocene. I've written about this book before in these pages. And I highly recommend this book to you. Ostensibly about climate change, the short book is really a brilliant meditation on death. Convinced there is no rolling back the damage, Scranton examines ways of facing the end of civilization. And he thinks we should learn from Rome. We don't want to have to rebuild like those shipwreck survivors of the early middle ages trying to frantically recreate all the knowledge that was lost. And so much has already been lost. We must, therefore, make a concerted effort, he says, to conserve our ecological and our civilizational heritage. In libraries.

Manguel, while playing with the idea that his library will stand as a kind of legacy of his life, long after the body of the man has turned to dust; wonderfully tells the reader that he also “likes to imagine that, on the day after my last, my library and I will crumble together, so that even when I am no more I'll still be with my books.” It's true that libraries have also been mausoleums. Think of Ramses II or Alexander the Great's places of final rest. Or el Escorial in Spain. Manguel, though,  seems to reject the legacy of memory aspect to his library. 

So, then, what does it all mean? Well, like so many others who came before him, Manguel wonders if perhaps more than anything, a library is a consolation.

Consolation, perhaps. Perhaps consolation.

As balm for the fractured soul~ this is how he ends his book. 

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Do you have a favorite library?

Many years ago, I worked on a translation of a Japanese documentary on the subject of the Abbey Library of St. Gall, which is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Everything I read in the translation about the library entranced me. And I finally got to visit this beautiful jewel a few years ago when I traveled to see it in St Gallen, in Switzerland. Nothing could have prepared me for the perfect Baroque period jewel that is the library. I think it is the most beautiful library in the world. The library itself dates way back in history, having started out as an early medieval scriptorium. Some of the books in the collection are national treasures. With its carved bookcases and painted ceilings, it's like a baroque dream come true. There is even a huge painted 16th century globe of the world. 

Probably what struck me most of all about the place (and this is perhaps true of many pilgrims visiting the famed library) was the plaque that was affixed above the rococo doors leading into the room, which reads in Greek: Psyches iatreion, which can be translated as "pharmacy of the soul" --though when we were there, I think the guidebook said "medicine of the soul." This claim that books are medicine for the soul (or libraries are hospices for the sick) is, in fact, the world's oldest library motto, dating all the way back to Pharaoh Ramses II, whose ancient library also had a "plaque" above the door designating the pharaoh's library to be a "house of healing for the soul."

Isn't that wonderful? 

This very ancient library motto became known to Europeans in the Renaissance when it was translated into Latin by Poggio and then adopted by the Swedish Royal Library for its official bookplate; finally, being carved into the eye-catching plaque above the library at St. Gall in 1760.

 

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-- For Abbas and Margit, who are also organizing their library

See my posts on the book burning scene in Don Quixote: Don Quixote: When Professor Wey-Gómez Ate Mochi and The Inquiry of the Library 

Alberto Manguel, The Library at Night

 

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Top Reads of 2019

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讀萬卷書,行萬里路

IMG_9496There is a wonderful Chinese saying that, traveling 10,000 miles is better than reading 10,000 books. In 2014, Michelle Obama mentioned these words, by Dong Qichang, on a visit to Peking University, to encourage young people there to get out and see the world. But, of course, you can also "see" the world in books. 

Artist Zhang Hongtu interpreted the saying differently. For according to Zhang: 
Dong Qichang said that to make a painting, one must “travel ten thousand miles, read ten thousand books.” That is to suggest that to attain wisdom, both books and travel are necessary. I prefer this interpretation since, if I had to choose one over the other, I would certainly choose books.

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IMG_79852019: Inspired by Susan Orlean's wonderful description of her fond memory of the piles and piles of library books of her childhood; those stacks of checked-out books forming totem poles of the narratives she had visited-- I continued doing less scattered reading and reading around themes: this year, there were five big totem poles: The Perfect Library, Leonardo da Vinci, Venice, Natural Wine, and Borneo! 

Also there was a slight detour into Descartes, poetry and castrati music!

Ok, drum roll....

2019 Top Reads: 

#1 Top Read of the year: Robert Macfarlane's Understory

Best in Fiction: A homage to the Quixote, Salman Rushdie's new novel, Quichotte was his best in years. In January 2020, a review I wrote about the novel apeared in the Dublin Review of Books. Very happy about that. Don Quixote will always be my Novel to Cross a Desert With.  

Also, Pine Islands by Marion. Poschmann

Best in Non-Fiction: Titian: The Last Days, by Mark Hudson.  I wrote about Titian's Pieta at Vox Nova at Patheos. (Runner Up for best non-fiction is The City of Falling Angels, by John Berendt 

Most Beautiful Book: Flora Magnifica: The Art of Flowers in Four Seasons, by Makoto Azuma

Biggest Surprise Discovery: Alberto Manguel's The Library at Night & American Gods, by Neil Gaiman 

Most Thought-Provoking and World Changing: The Accidental Connoisseur: An Irreverent Journey Through the Wine World, by Lawrence Osborne. This book completely changed my way of understanding wine. In particular, I finally understood why I have never been a fan of California wines--especially those made in the "international style." This book stimulated me to go on reading about natural wines and European terroir. I loved this wine masters series as well. So far, we only watched Italy--but we are planning to move on to France next year. This is a New world for me, indeedy!

 Also world changing was Miraculous Encounters: Pontormo from Drawing to Painting. This is an absolutely gorgeous Getty Publications catalog for the exhibition held at the museum in early 2019.

Best Science: It's hard to believe, but I didn't read any science at all this year--except one book on exoplanets. But I did read a lot of science fiction. Does that count? And one of the SF books I read, The Three Body Problem, was absolutely fantastic! In a post Searching for Exoplanets with Columbus at 3 Quarks Daily-- I wrote about three others SF books with surprising religious themes: the beautifully written The Book of Strange New Things and the two books by Mary Doria Russell's The Sparrow and Children of God. These three last ones having a fascinating religious theme. Details in Searching for Exoplanets with Columbus

Best Re-Read: "Take my camel, dear,' said my Aunt Dot, as she climbed down from this animal on her return from High Mass."  One of my all-time favorite novels; Towers of Trebizond. We re-read it for my bookclub--but ladies did not like it, which is puzzling since I think it is a wonder of the world.

In 2020, I would love to re-read Dorothy Dunnett's the House of Niccolò series. And my favorite book from 2017, The Kingdom!

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Library at nightThe First Stack: The Perfect Library

In January, I wrote a very personal essay over at 3 Quarks Daily about my experience leaving my books behind in Japan, and how wonderful it has been re-building my lost library with Chris here in Pasadena. The essay began when a friend of mine learned that I had never read Alberto Manguel’s Library at Night. Manguel was a friend of Borges and one of the world's greatest lovers of books. My friend insisted I go straight home and order the book! Which I did. I have read several of his other books as well. I am a huge fan of his writing and his The Library at Night is my biggest surprise discovery of 2019--since how could I have not known about Manguel? The Perfect Library was my favorite essay of the year--and definitely the most personal thing I wrote in 2019.  I wrote one more personal essay in 2019, called Tokyo Blossoms. I ended up taking my first-ever creative writing class --online at UCLA Extension. It was on the personal essay--I enjoyed it beyond belief! Next quarter, I am taking a beginning short story class and an intermediate level narrative nonfiction class. This tower was a very small stack of books, hardly a tower at all--but included, Packing up my Library, Piano Shop on the Left Bank, and Phantoms on the Bookshelves (would like to re-read this one).

 

The Second Stack: Leonardo

The big art news of 2019 was the sale of a newly discovered Leonardo. I told the tangled tale of the discovery and sale of the picture in a post at 3 Quarks Daily, called On the Trail of Leonardo. As I write this, the painting is MIA. It is not being included in the Leonardo "exhibition of a lifetime" going on now at the Louvre. And, I think it speaks volumes that Salvator Mundi was sold in Christie's Post-War and Contemporary Art Evening Sale. Why? Because that is where people spend the big bucks. 

Anyway, as we were going back to Milan, I read quite a few more books, starting by re-reading the Ross King book on the Last Supper. I wrote about my "out of body" experience in front of the last supper in this post at 3 Quarks in 2016, called Eyes Swimming with Tears (James Elkins has a new book out, by the way). My favorite books on Leonardo are in my notes here. This year, the great new reads were (all Monumental books!): Living with Leonardo: Fifty Years of Sanity and Insanity in the Art World and Beyond, by Martin Kemp; Isaacson's new biography on the painter, and most recently: The Last Leonardo: The Secret Lives of the World's Most Expensive Painting
by Ben Lewis. Highly recommend all these books!


Polifemo bravo!Small Stack #1 Castrati Music and the Whitsun Festival 2019

I am a big fan of Baroque music and love the counter-tenor voice. So I was delighted to learn that Cecilia Bartoli, who has served as the artistic director of the Salzburg Whitsun Festival since 2012, was dedicating this year’s four day festival to the music of the castrati. I became even more interested in going when I learned that for the first time since 1735, audiences would be able to listen to and compare Alcina by Handel back to back with his fierce competitor Porpora’s Polifemo, originally performed in London by Farinelli at the competing theater company that was giving Handel such a terrible headache. Handel was a difficult man at times. A huge row with the castrato superstar Senisino had caused a breakaway group from Handel’s company, forming the Opera for the Nobility. Senisino was joined on stage under Porpora’s artistic direction by Farinelli and these two opera companies–Handel’s and Porpora’s–would set London on fire; with one woman uttering the famous words, One God, one Farinelli… 

After re-watching the movie Farinelli --which was shown at the arts theater in Pasadena in honor of the Festival, I read two novels about the castrati : one by Anne Rice, which I didn't like and one by the Dutch novelist and musician Margriet de Moor. I also read a great history called the World of the Castrati by Patrick Barbier. There is a ton of details in my essay, Gender-Bending Rock Stars: Counter-Tenors, Castrati And The Wild And Crazy Baroque.

 

IMG_8270 (1)The Third Stack: Venice

For me, the highlight of 2019 was traveling to Venice. We were in Italy for six weeks. We spent a week in Orvieto looking at the Signorelli frescoes. We also retraced our footsteps on the Piero della Francesca pilgrimage. We spent almost a week in Milan... but it was our nine days in Venice that stands out. I am only going to list the books I read on Venice, because--in fact-- I am still reading and haven't started writing about it. We traveled there to see Titian's Transfiguration. But --so sad to say--it was under conservation. Great excuse to go back! But we did make a kind of Titian pilgrimage, staying in the quarter where we lived and breaking down in tears in front of his last painting in the Academia. That work, the Pieta, made a great impression on us--in great part because of a fabulous book we read by Mark Hudson, called Titian's Last Days. It was my favorite non-fiction of the year.  I wrote this about my experience on Vox Nova at Patheos. We traveled for Titian but returned in love with Tintoretto. 

Also on Titian: Titian: His Life, by Sheila Hale; The Titian Committee, by Iain Pears; Titian: Lady in White, by Andreas Henning (Norton Simon Museum Exhibition Catalog)

On Carpaccio: Ciao, Carpaccio!: An Infatuation, by Jan Morris [Re-read twice and it's still out to read again!}; Carpaccio: Major Pictorial Cycles, by Stefania Mason

My reading so far: Venice Is a Fish: A Sensual Guide, by Tiziano Scarpa (and Dream of Venice in Black and White): If Venice Dies, by Salvatore Settis, Shylock's Daughter: A Novel of Love in Venice, by Erica Jong [worst book of 2019]; A Fury in the Words: Love and Embarrassment in Shakespeare's Venice, by Harry Berger Jr.;Venice and Its Jews: 500 Years Since the Founding of the Ghetto, by Lenore Rosenberg; The Horses of St Mark's: A Story of Triumph in Byzantium, Paris and Venice, by Charles Freeman [FANTASTIC!!! GOING TO RE-READ]; The Science of Saving Venice, by Caroline Fletcher; The City of Falling Angels, by John Berendt (runner up for best in non-fiction!) Also fascinating: Venice: Extraordinary Maintenance, by Gianfranco Pertot 

Fantastic Cookbook:Venice: Four Seasons of Home Cooking, by Russell Norman. Also FUN: Brunetti's Cookbook, by Roberta Pianaro, Donna Leon

Post about wine and Venice coming up next week at 3QD.

 

Small Stack #2: Poetry

Very happy to have more translations of the Chieko Poems published in Transference, Western Michigan University's journal of poetry translation. There was a lot of great stuff this issue. Here is a link to the translations.

Here is the entire issue.

University of Iowa's journal of literary translations EXCHANGES published some of my translations earlier this year 

I was struck this autumn that I sometimes don't understand the difference between very lyrical prose and poetry... in Kotaro's poem, it is free form--and yet his are perfect poems. What makes them so, though? So, I watched a masterclass online given by Billy Collins on the craft of poetry, and I just loved it. I feel learning something about the art can help so much as a reader and lover of poetry. Following this up I read The Art of Voice: Poetic Principles and Practice, by Tony Hoagland. Sally recommended Looking for Dragon Smoke, by Bly--which I am looking forward to reading early in 2020, along with two other books by Hinton, I have. Read Hunger Mountain by David Hinton, and am now very curious about his work. 


IMG_3188 (1)Fourth Stack: Natural Wines

Lawrence Osbourne, in his book, The Wet and the Dry, writes movingly about Dionysus; reminding us that the poet Pindar compared the god of the vine to that of "the pure light of high summer." That is the kind of wine (wine light) I want to drink--especially in summer-- a wine that embodies the pure light and sunshine of the season. So far, that means the volcanic babies of Sicily (Long live Arianna Occhipinti!) and the glorious amphora whites from Georgia. We loved this wine from Baia's Wine (Baia, like Arianna is a young and very talented and amazing wine maker!) "liquid honeysuckle and thyme--" without the overwhelming sulphur of the Sicilian COS amphora either. Lingering sunlight and perfume... sunny and cheerful wine.

Venissa, too, if we can afford another bottle someday... 

All those lesser known grapes that are not on the road usually traveled, the legendary dorona grape, the Tsitska, Krakhuna, and Tsolikouri from Georgia; the zibbibo in Sicily and waiting in great anticipation to try the Hamdani, Jandali, and Dabouki white grapes from the Holy Land. Always love Cassis. Definitely recommend: Tasting the Past, by Kevin Begos.

For sunshine reds, so far, the only light summer red we have had is the 100% sangiovese from il Borro and the COS "pithos" fermented in an amphora from nero d'avola and frappato grapes. (nero d'avola is one of my favorite red grapes).

I guess most people around here have a favorite Feynman quote. Mine is from his famous discourse on wine-- an aside during one of his lectures at Caltech, where he said that "Life is fermentation."

For years, I thought that "life is translation." That was my motto--typical translator-- 

Not anymore though. Now, life is fermentation. For sure! 

Osbourne goes on to explain that the ancient Egyptians, like the Cretans, designated the rising of the star Sirius in high summer (July) with fermentation. And this to them suggested the life force (fermentation and intoxication, life from decay...) 

And in the Amber Revolution, Simon Woolf off-handedly mentions that the huge amphora (qvevri) were sometimes used at the end of life, in death, cut to allow for a body in burial.... like in Borneo).

Favorite of the bunch: The Accidental Connoisseur: An Irreverent Journey Through the Wine World, by Lawrence Osbourne

Others: 

Lawrence Osbourne's The Wet and the Dry: A Drinker's Journey 

Simon Woolf's Amber Revolution

Alice Feiring's
For the Love of Wine: My Odyssey Through the World's Most Ancient Wine Culture

Kevin Begos' wonderful Tasting the Past: The Science of Flavor and the Search for the Origins of Wine

 

Small Stack #3 Descartes

In Spring this year, I had the chance to revisit Descartes and his mind-body duality in a class held at the Huntington Library, in Pasadena. Taught by Descartes scholar Gideon Manning, we spent six weeks reading Descartes and having fruitful conversations about the philosopher’s work. Maybe Descartes is better read when one is in mid-life? Because I found Meditations to be much more appealing compared to when I first read the work thirty some years ago. Recommended reading: Russell Shorto’s Descartes’ Bones (I loved this one and plan to re-read it) and AC Grayling’s The Age of Genius: The Seventeenth Century and the Birth of the Modern Mind.

 

Fifth Stack: Borneo

I took my first-ever writing class this autumn and one of the prompts was to write about a place you have never been. I really enjoyed doing that and wrote about my favorite place I have never been: Borneo! It was great fun to re-read old classics like Gavin Young's, In Search of Conrad and Eric Hansen’s travel classic, Stranger in the Forest. I also re-visited Lorne and Lawrence Blair's Ring of Fire films. I met Lorne Blair in Ubud not long before his tragic death. Anyway, this walk down imaginary memory lane led me to discover a writer, I had never heard of before: Carl Hoffman (who wrote the best seller, Savage Harvest and his new double biography called The Last Wild Men of Borneo about Bruno Manser and American tribal art dealer Michael Palmieri. He is a fantastic writer and those books really were riveting! I also picked up The Wasting of Borneo, by Alex Shoumatoff. I am a long time fan of his work and this book was very sad...

Palm oil is a funny thing. This oil that we never knew we needed thirty years ago is now in everything. From shampoo and toothpaste to every snack known to man-- It is nearly impossible to avoid. Shoumatoff says he is down to a drop a week in toothpaste and shampoo... I don't think I use any—but will go check my shampoo bottle (nope, I’m good). But it is really hard to avoid the stuff, since it is in everything... And so the destruction continues. After the forests are cleared, monocrop oil palms are planted, and this habitat destruction has pushed the island's animals to the brink of extinction--including our cousins, the orangutans.

How can we continue with this destruction?

 

Looking Forward

First: My favorite writer William Dalrymple's new one on the East India Co.,  Anarchy. Hard to believe it is taking me this long to get to it! My first project will be to finish my reading on Signorelli and Freud. I have a stack of books and am really looking forward to getting into those. I would also like to finish my "walk down memory" lane, reading what little there is on Ladakh and the murals at Alchi. Hoping to visit China for 6 weeks this summer so will turn to China after that... I haven't flown across the Pacific since leaving Japan. I hope we make it work. 

Also reading now into 2020, the Shadow King. There is so much to say about this magnificent novel. 

 

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Final must mention: Overstory, by Richard Powers 

A review I wrote about the book The Power of Nunchi will appear in the Kyoto Journal in 2020. 

My 2018 reads were written up in in 2019 in two blog posts at 3 Quarks: Do Octopuses Have Souls? I only read one of those books from that post in 2019--but it was fantastic: Waking, Dreaming, Being: Self and Consciousness in Neuroscience, Meditation, and Philosophy, by Evan Thompson. And: A Symphony Of Vanishing Sounds (The Insect Apocalypse).

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Hidden Handel

Mourad80 singers from my beloved LA Master Chorale singing wall-to-wall choruses. The last time we saw Israel in Egypt performed was in Jerusalem in 2013. I was terribly jet-lagged and was drifting in and out of sleep. Now, when I look back on that night, it feels like a wonderful dream. But there were not that many singers on stage. So one could actually drift in and out of sleep. 

Last night's show was completely different. In addition to the soundscape, Grant Gershon commissioned Syrian Armenian visual artist Kevork Mourad to create visual images to accompany the piece. He worked for 15 years with YoYo Ma's Silk Road project and his work on the Exodus for this show was this really compelling blend of drawing, animation, and film. For me, it was very reminiscent of Chinese ink painting and calligraphy. Much of it was done in real time, so there was no going back... images of people carrying heavy items on their back, hunched over as they struggled forward--less luggage or personal belongings, it was as if they were carrying pieces of civilization itself on their backs. There was humor (Land brought forth frogs--counter tenor).

Video of Mourad here... 

80 singers belting out the finale was sublime. 

(I loved hearing that Handel sued the oratorio music he composed in London to pay for his operas--which were all in the red! I always tell my astronomer that there are three things I love about LA: the Getty, the Master Chorale and I can never remember what the third is...? What could it be?) 

 

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The Most Beautiful Opera Houses of the World (Lists)

La scalaI became interested in beautiful opera houses a few years ago after seeing a performance at La Scala in Milan, which must be one of life's great musical experiences.

Actually, I became obsessed by beautiful theaters after watching Herzog's Fitzcarraldo, whose hero defiantly declares:

"As true as I am standing here, one day I shall bring grand opera to Iquitos." 

Fitcarraldo is the incredible Sisyphean true story of a man who wants to build an opera house in the middle of the Amazon rainforest in the late 19th century and his story is only to be outdone by the crazy outlandishness of the man who decides to re-create the event a hundred years later in film. 

Like a set of nested Russian dolls--each more mind-bogglingly conceived-- the story's central metaphor continuously revolves around the theme of "man against nature." This is a world where it people's dreams that truly matter. And these people will move mountains in order to pursue their obsessions. So, to build his opera house, the hero, Fitcarraldo, has to employ hundreds of Indians to help pull a 320-ton ship over a muddy hill. But perhaps what is the most incredible part of the story is that Werner Herzog, in the making of his film about the historic ship-pulling, insists on physically re-creating the original challenges by struggling to capture on film the impossible task of having the local Indians pulling a real 320-ton ship over a mountain. His hell-bent will to veracity has made Herzog's film the stuff of legend.

And this is all very unexpected since film has never been an art much concerned with literal truth, being taken up solely by images. Not to mention that if all that matters is the "burden of his dream," why doesn't Herzog employ the usual Hollywood devices of stage set and miniatures to evoke his story more poetically? Why does he seek to do the impossible and film actual people pulling a real 320-ton ship over a steep and very slippery hill in the most remote part of the Amazon --given the useless burden of doing so?

Why, indeed?  

The glorious Don Quixote of the Amazon? The Conquistador of the Useless. I love Herzog! And someday to see the Amazonas in Manaus is a dream of mine. 

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The Most Beautiful Opera Houses in the World, by Antoine Pecqueur, is a fun book. It does not include the Amazonas in Manaus, nor does it include the Colon in Buenos Aires, which is supposed to be another great beauty in South America. It is a quirky and opiniated volume. Originally written in French, it has stunningly beautiful photographs of the old opera houses. And while I cannot say I have any desire to see Bayreuth (sorry everyone), I am hoping very much to visit Teatro Nacional de São Carlos in Lisbon and Teatro La Fenice later this year. Maybe the theater in Barcelona as well--all three recommended by Pecqueur as being among the most beautiful. 

My own list, so far, would have to be something like this:

1 Palais Garnier. It remains my favorite. The two best ballet performances of my life where seen here: La Source and La Sylphide. Ceiling painted by Chagall...I love everything about this theater. Hoping to be there at least once this year. 

2. La Scala. A life experience in a country where the prime minister traditionally attends La Scala's season's openings--always covered by the top newspapers and where art and high culture still really matters. Also, it is a place where attendees are known to boo! We saw Carmen here and shared a box with a very seriously attentive and opinionated Italian couple. They were glued to the performance and adjusted their clapping meticulously to represent their feelings for each performer. Such a difference from the laid back performances in LA, where "it's all good!"

3. Parma Theater. Have not seen a performance here but most visually beautiful and historically interesting theater I have seen. A perfect Renaissance gem. I am hoping to attend the Verdi festival here someday.....

4. The Zurich Opera House Wonderfully beautiful art neo-rococo style inside. It is also associated with Wagner but that is not why I like it. 

5. Santa Fe Opera House. Indescribable!

++ I also have another book on opera houses by another French writer, Opera Houses Of The World by Thierry Beauvert. Interesting, both books list the new Tokyo Opera House in the list of most beautiful new theaters. Sydney too, of course.  Here is National Geographic's Top Ten--do you agree?

Palais_garnier_auditorium_ceiling_chagall1

 



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